Under way at last

Ready to rock!

Ready to rock!

Well, the time is here …. the bike is packed – clothes – check, tools – check, documents – check, photocopies of documents – check, compass and two GPS’s – check.  Adventure suit – check … suit inner linings – no ( how cold can it be – even on the Bolivian high plains during summer ? and anyway – I have no room for them).   Tent (in case of emergencies) – check, sleeping bag with mosquito net – check.

Cameras – Sony DSC-RX100 and GoPro Hero3+

Just have to buy a 1st aid kit now, get some Argentinian and Bolivian Pesos and that’s about it …. Hit the road early tomorrow – Asuncion, Resistencia, Sáenz Peña …. About 550 Kms – an easy 1st day to make sure everything is ok and nothing falls off.

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Multistrada issues …..

I wanted to buy a “dual sport” bike to do some long distance touring in South America. The choice came down to the tried and tested BMW1200 GS or the relatively unproven (except on the race track) Ducati Multistrada.

The BMW has a proven track record, it’s bigger, stronger, heavier, devoid of character and ugly as sin. The Multistrada is unproven in tough environments (like the Andes), temperamental, and comes from the shop floor with a few built in glitches before you even start … For example, a fuel gauge that insists you are out of fuel just after you top up the tank and a butterfly valve in the exhaust system that has no function other than to affect (reduce) noise – but regularly sticks, causes rough running and generates computer error readings.

I decided to buy the Ducati. You see, life is too short for Germanic engineering excellence at the total cost of character, and the Ducati is a thing of beauty. The minute you throw a leg over the Ducati, you become entranced by its charisma. It has lost NONE of the racetrack pedigree that is synonymous with its origins. At the same time, those clever little Italians have put in a computer that gives it three ‘other’ personalities… Press the appropriate buttons and it offers urban mode, enduro mode and touring mode – all of which calm down the sport mode – which was my first experience and the cause of my attraction …. With all of it’s 150 horse power. The BM can do all that too of course …. Except it’s still a big panzer tank and it’s never going to be pretty.

Right then. Wrong decision made, and happily justified …. ‘No victims, only volunteers’ as a good friend of mine regularly observes in life. Im not revisiting that decision either – I can’t live with a bike I hate the look of..

So. Having explored how I can get rid of that butterfly valve in the exhaust …. The news is not great …. That computer I mentioned doesn’t like it if you just mess around and disconnect it. A full ‘cat-free’ exhaust system is about 10 Kgs lighter (significant) and there are kits available on the market which bring their own solutions to fooling the computer into believing the butterfly valve is still there and working. It’s an expensive option at about $2,000, but that 10 Kg saving combined with a free flow exhaust system is attractive too …. Jury out until I can convince myself it’s worth it.

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Ducati Multistrada 1200 ‘Pikes Peak’

image

This is the bike I will be touring on … Big, fast, Italian, totally electronic /  computerized … Just perfect for the average mechanic in the Bolivian high plains if anything goes wrong – hehehehehe (You have to laugh don’t you).

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Suzuki Boulevard 1,800 V- twin

20131201-002844.jpgSuzuki Boulevard 1,800 V- twin

This is NOT he bike I will be touring on, but it is a barrel of laughs from traffic light to traffic light.

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Hello?

Right …. I want to set up a blog, and when I go on the internet to find out how, two things arise.   Firstly … It’s not that easy, there are blog programs, hosts, blah blah blah …. none of which I understand.   Secondly, I apparently have already set up a blog … It seems I did this in 2009, and made one post to it …. which was in March of that year, declaring that I wanted to get my golf handicap down to 4.4 by the end of that year.  Well, looking back, that’s what was important to me then …. and I remember now, with some satisfaction, that I did actually achieve that aim, with the assistance of some good friends, (known collectively as ‘The Dewsweepers’).   I miss that time and those friends a lot now …. even though four years have passed since.

It’s funny how circumstances can change and priorities change with them as a consequence.   I could not have even imagined in 2009 that within four years, I would be living in the middle of South America, be a Director and board member of a Bank, CEO of an organic sugar plant in Paraguay, have no time (or indeed interest – due to high temperatures and lack of competition) to play golf, own two powerful motorcycles, and learn to enjoy living in a country that has a four-week winter in July / August, and is typically between 25 and 40C.

But here I am and those are my circumstances now.

So why do I want a blog?

Well, I mentioned where I am and that I have a couple of bikes …. and over here, on the same land mass as me, there are things like the biggest slat flats in the world, Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia, the North Yungas Road in Bolivia (Ruta de los muertes), Machu Pichu in Peru, the Atacama desert in Chile.

I am planning to do my first foray in January 2014 …. maybe the Salt flats in Bolivia to start with …. and I am getting a multitude of inputs and reactions from people whenever I talk about the prospect …. Most are usually positive and encouraging, and some are strongly negative – usually from those who don’t understand adventure motorcycling and have no life experience on which to base their opinions.  So I take the latter on the basis that it is opinion put forward genuinely in my best interests (from their perspective).  

The counsel of those who do understand the desire, is usually qualified and punctuated with “You are going alone?” “Are you sure about using a high tech bike in such vast, inhospitable country?” “How will you manage fuel supplies / backup etc?” …. 

My answers (“I don’t exactly know yet”) may sound a bit bravado laden, but they are (a) the truth, and (b) not necessarily bravado …. Motorcycle tours to places such as those I have in mind (above) have been done before and continue to be done, year in year out, by my many, older, younger, better equipped, worse equipped, than me.  Very few die in the process and most have the adventure of a lifetime.   I don’t know if my Ducati Multistrada is going to be up to the trip – Ducati say that is what is was built for … I don’t know how I will fare with the problem of finding and then buying fuel in Bolivia … I just know that others do it – and manage fine.

Will I be up to it physically?   I think so.  I am expecting some altitude sickness problems (again Bolivia)  …. but that is manageable, I believe.   I will take on a relatively modest first attempt to see how I fare …. Salar de Uyuni, via Ruta del Chaco and if I feel good after that, maybe over the Andes into Chile back to Paraguay through the Atacama desert and across Argentina.

So that’s where I am now, I am going to study the maps at the weekend to see if I can identify a suitable route for that trip – and start to make preparations …. I propose to record my experiences here.

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